Відео

Great video Guy! I was wondering if you could tell me the height of the slide support and correspodning drawer slide just under the middle shelf (i.e., between the bottom drawer slide and the middle shelf). This doesn'r seem to be captured in the plans and I don't have sketch-up. Thanks.

I ordered mine yesterday. They are about two months behind on manufacturing because they are so popular. UPDATE> Got it way ahead of scheduled and cant be more happy with it.

Do you glue the brass in place? Are the brass ends left naked and exposed?

First time I've ever heard anyone explaining how to use the router bit centering template. Many thanks...

Yea is great to find the error but you didntntell us how the adjust the t square to fix the problem.

中国地区怎么购买？

Is the error equal to 1/6th of the gap or 1/12th of the gap ?

So, a hundred and twenty dollar drill guide called the Hinge Crafter…

Thanks my LS system is on the way I purchased the Incra I Box with router top a year ago now I'll finish it with LS. Good job!!

You call that simple! I don’t know about all that! Seems awful complicated to me but I’m gonna have to get one and figure it out!

This video DOWS NOT show how to setup and adjust your miter gauge!

A lot cheaper than the Shark CNC router fence and lift.👍

Guy you have the best videos on Incra Products period. I have the TS LS wonder fence system with the Incra Master Lift II Router Lift and the Incra 1000 HD and the miter express. Since I am a casual woodworker I come to your videos to re a quaint myself on set up and calibration when ever I need to do precision work. The details in your videos are exquisite. 😁🛫

I have a couple recommendations for those following your plans . 1/2” ply for the bottom is too light for the span especially since there is no support along the front and back. I would recommend going to 3/4” and/or placing a brace mid span front to rear. Ideally, most center dividers are 3/4” as well. The 1/2” floor is too light to support drawers hung on the center divider with any weight in them. The only support for it is provided by pocket screws along the back of the center divider with a shear load and those into the bottom of the table top. None of these are ideal for providing support to a loaded center divider. Additionally, the center divider gets no support from the bottom horizontal metal frame members since the floor doesn’t either unless you cut the floor dimensions to be supported by the metal frame. I would do that and make it 3/4”. The tolerances for the dust collection are just too tight. It leaves zero room for hose flanges and is a “shoehorn” fit at best. I eliminated the 2 bottom drawers on the left side and the bottom drawer on the right side. That leaves a very comfortable amount of room on the right side to turn the 45-degree 2.5” to be flat rather than upright. And on the left side a direct center drop from the dust collector to the bottom floor rather than a nearly impossible double 90-degree below the dust collector. Always hard to get 10 pounds in a 8 pound sack.

Hello dear Guy, fantastic video, I have INCRA IBox and I follow you, can you confirm the measure in inch of the bit used please

What a perfect video for me. I own the entire Incra Router set you have. I have been looking for just such a plan!!! Thank you. I am reading lots of suggestions and mods to your plan, all of which are above my woodworking acumen. I am trying to understand what they refer to. It would sure help if you'd respond to all these before the rest of get to that point???

As many others have noted, there is no actual tuning advice given in this video. It just shows how to check to see if you are accurate or not. I found another video that worked perfectly the first time. Tuned my 1000HD to within .001 inch of square on the first try. ua-cam.com/video/NrTeFQ0iQ5k/v-deo.html. He uses an artists square, but I used just a regular carpenter's square. I fought with the 5 cut method with this, but it just wasn't possible to do so accurately enough because you don't have a permanent pivot point.

Love this pair of videos. Thank you for making the plans and cultists available. I’ve had the Incra table for about 3 years now and have been using it a lot. Have had this cabinet project on hold till now because I finally splurged to get a track saw. I feel confident that I can get all the plywood cut properly now.

Good video but Incra needs to work not over engineering their products. There's so many things that could easier to use.

I got some 1/2in MDF in my shop,what your idea on MDF

Spectacular Guy! I am half way to finishing this. Now, if I can continue to follow your directions. Thanks for the professional video. Straight and to the point.

Excellent product, recently I buy many pieces trough Amazon/Tiendamia from Argentina

I got the best result when just used and engineers square

What hinges did you use for the door on the Incra router table cabinet build?

Hey, this work great!! Thank you. I got my miter dialed in on the second iteration.

you have to the red neck about it

great video. great explanation

Well, this video was slightly better than the last idiot.....while it is a better more accurate way to confirm the gauge is set properly, he doesn't bother to show what exactly to do to actually correct the gauge....come on moron we know it's off or we wouldn't be here!!!!!

I was also looking for info on how to actually tune the gauge once I found it to be out. I found the answer at ua-cam.com/video/LymUDya0eBw/v-deo.html. Hope it helps some others!

👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼🍎😎

is the SketchUp file available? I am making one of your cabinets and would like the plans. thanks.

Guy? Guy? Are you there? Apparently Guy doesn't answer anyone's questions with regards to this build so I thought I might fend off those people who think he might answer their questions. He will not answer any questions . . . so save your time. FYI, this is an Incra Tools sponsored video.

Just bought the 1000 SE with fence why would i need the cross cut sled?

Given that the positioner range is only 32" long, how to you set it up for a 52" fence?

why is the positioner head so far from the bit? this length allows for flex. flex is bad.

somebody has a sponsorship

wasted 2 t-track connector !

I like the way the methods are forward so fast…Magic! Yeah Right!

My only wish is Incra made a version of the 5000 sled like the MiterExpress sled... with a t-track and removable miter gauge (to fit any miter gauge). The MiterExpress is great, but I'd like a larger version, the size of the 5000. It would allow you to pick and choose the miter gauge you want.

I have tried to download your cabinet plans but it doesn't seem to download. Is there another way I can get these plans from you?

Guy, I’m in mid-build on the Incra router table cabinet. Can you provide the drawer handle and door hinges you used? Also, is there any more detail available regarding the power switch and wiring? The video glances over that and the plans provide no information. Thank you! Doug

I think it's possible to clamp the miter bar down so this gauge can't slide back and forth, figure out how much adjsutment is needed, use the right feeler gauge and another block of wood clamp to the saw table and corret the error and try again. Becase the pivot on 1000HD is not directly on the fence, there is some trigonometry involved. Measure the distance from pivot to fence face, and put that into the calculation.

Thank you very much for putting all this together and for supplying the cut list and SketchUp plans. I am in the process of following your plans and was wondering if I lost a page as you had not, as far as I can see, provided details for the vertical spacing of the 2 spacing bars for the small drawers below the dust collection system on the left side of the cabinet. Any tips would be appreciated. I was not a fan of the two hoses inside the cabinet so I asked my son to 3-D print a "T" pipe connection to which the 4” and 2” hoses could connect to. The bottom part of the "T" is the same length of the back wall and is form fitted into the back wall. A 2" hose connecter is attached on the outside of the back wall which means the entire 2" hose is outside the back of the cabinet. Doing so eliminated the requirement for the 2" hose inside the cabinet and this set-up works wonderfully. I can provide the 3-D printer pipe connection plans / specifications if anyone wishes. I also used the blue flexible "Dust-Rite" 4" hose which made dust collection hose installation much easier than using the hose in your video. I know you mention it but the install of the power system needs to be considered before anyone gets too far down the build path. I had to take the walls apart after I had screwed them together in order to cut a hole in the left side panel for my power / switch box, to cut a notch in the centre vertical panel through which to route the power cord, and to cut a notch in the right side panel to route the power cord through. In your explanation, you sort of breeze over this issue. I bet I have viewed your UA-cam Router Table Videos a dozen x 4 times to capture the wisdom of your work. As such, I noted that you had a pocket hole in your vertical panel about halfway up the board facing the front. I am hoping this was an error or I am really doing something wrong! Thanks again and although it took you only 45 minutes to install the full extension door slides, it is taking me slightly longer!!!! 🙂

Replying to the many questions asked here would go a long way of making this video up there with the best ..

Not really a "tuning your miter gauge" video. More of "how to check the accuracy of your miter gauge" video. That's fine but why the misleading title?

Leigh! Far fewer limitations and so much easier to use.

So how do you fix the problem? I just wasted 5 min

Unfortunately, you assume that the 30 degree stop on the protractor is as accurate as the 90 degree. Better to check the 90 degree stop with a five-cut method.

I put the miter gauge hanging over the edge of my bench. (So the fence is vertical) Held the slide portion down. Used a electronic level. Zeroed it on the top of the slide, and adjusted the fence at whatever angle. Since 90 degree is your primary, go with that. Check your other angles to double check. Worked nicely for me. The 3 cut and 5 cut are great, but I don’t like math. Ha!

I put the miter gauge hanging over the edge of my bench. (So the fence is vertical) Held the slide portion down. Used a electronic level. Zeroed it on the top of the slide, and adjusted the fence at whatever angle. Since 90 degree is your primary, go with that. Check your other angles to double check. Worked nicely for me. The 3 cut and 5 cut are great, but I don’t like math. Ha!